RIPWhile I’ve made costume designer extraordinaire Eiko Ishioka my style icon before, with word of her passing, I wanted to revisit her amazing, inspiring career.
I was a fan long before I knew her name as a teen watching Dracula and The Cell and was lucky enough to see her creations in person at the Grace Jones performance.
Thick fabrics, brocade and otherwise, make prefall’s most interesting silhouettes. Starting with Proenza Schouler and their squishy, gorgeous collection. They never used to be my favorite but lately they are killing it. Lots to love in the collection but I’d most like to attend winter parties in this cozy high waisted wrap look.
Pringle of Scotland not only gave us exceptional booties but great flattering shapes like this cinched puff skirt suit. Love
I just want to take a nap in this Ports 1961 blanket coat which manages to still flatter with all its bulk.
TSE tends to be too basic for my tastes but when basic meets a silhouette this perfect magic is made. Glad subtle volume is not going anywhere this season.
Oh, Thakoon. Pretty doesn’t begin to describe. This pastel look takes elements that have traditionally been, frankly uptight (a turtle neck and a grey blazer?) and brought it to the ballet. I’d love to figure out a way to replicate the feel of this ensemble with items in my closet.
Trompe l’oeil, funky Chanel esque jackets, there was a lot of fun stuff to pick from the cheap and chic collection. But I couldn’t help pairing this with Von Furstenberg’s yellow, black and white look. A great combo that looks fresh and funky. Also note: we all need some lady like gloves.
Ok, in real life, I’m probably not on board with these shorts but I do love the mixing of black and white patterns, the jacket is fabulous and once again (a recurring theme) the turtleneck gets the pretty treatment. Good for the much maligned turtleneck!
Good for Phillip Lim adding a big dose of fun. Love the comic book sweater that is somehow still fashionable rather than gimmicky. Maybe it helps being paired with a perfect fall weather leather skirt.
These rumpled trousers toe the line of sloppy but win out thanks to the perfect cuff. Foes this mean my skills of cuffing from my ore teens years will come in handy once again? Also, adore the trompe l’oeil belt and once again another great little jacket – a piece no one can have too many of.
Am I wrong to like this all red look? I might be. But that sweater is the kind that makes it worth it to date one of those terribly hip bits you see hanging out at the Ace Hotel. Just so you can steal it. I also think this collection may have subconsciously caused me to buy a fur hat. For that I’m thankful.
Wallpaper floral matching pant suit? Who knew DKNY could get so quirky? Not only that, but get quirky so very right? This could easily look clownish but instead it’s chic and making me rethink the hated concept of matchy matchy.
Palazzo pants are another often hated trend, but I’ve always kind of loved them. Doo.Ri’s elegant belted pattern suit might even get a few new followers to the wide leg look.
While there’s nothing groundbreaking to mention about this Jason Wu dress, I do think it;s terribly adorable and flattering. I’d wear this all the time.
Burberry has been presenting some of the most wearable luxury lines now for several seasons. Pre Fall gives us this girlie but sophisticated cocktail dress. So in love.
Admittedly, I really did not like the overall Michael Kors collection but it got me right at the end with the awesome proportions and fabric mixing in this casual/dressy look. I am stealing this idea for the next time I get to dress up.
Keeping the world classy, Reem Acra! This is just lady like perfection.
Jackets seem to be getting kind of future and I like it. I’ll take this Reed Krafkoff one for milder days…
And this Blade Runner-tastic Narciso Rodriguez one for chillier ones, thank you!
I know, I know, it’s fur, but it’s also really lovely, simple, and beautiful and fur just looks great to me right now… But I only do fake, so chill.
More fur, this time simple doesn’t play any role in it whatsoever. Glad he’s still all about dressing insanely rich people with taste.
Loved Chanel. Gold and pearls might just be my favorite friends.
Well, isn’t this Donna Karan dress a joy. I finally have some weddings coming up and if I could, this would be my dress.
See more great looks after the jump!!
Click here for the rest of Best of Pre-Fall Part 1
Art Nouveau DesignerWhile it’s taken a hit with its association with college dorm rooms, I still adore the Art Nouveau movement, particularly when it comes to jewelry.
Rene Lalique was one of France’s most acclaimed masters and his gorgeous work speaks for itself.
I’d do just about anything to own his huge serpent brooch – which unfortunately means robbing a museum, which I’m not totally up for.
He was also a gifted glass maker and later became associated with Art Deco.
by Andrew Bolton (2011)The book accompanying the Met’s extraordinary Alexander McQueen exhibit, Savage Beauty is exquisite.
If you weren’t able to make it to the show, (I am truly sorry) This book should be on the top of your wish list.
While I’ve mentioned it before (and posted images) on my review of the exhibit, it’s worth mentioning again because it’s on crazy sale on Amazon and makes a great present for fashion lovers of all kinds.
I recently gave it to a nine year old cousin who was simply beside herself, jumping up and down at the photos.
The images are bold and many and the hologram cover is pretty awesome. A fantastic retrospective of an incredibly creative career cut far to short sniff .
OK, so it’s taken forever to organize and write about it, but Paris was amazing, just amazing. And if I had to choose a favorite it would be Comme des Garcons off the wall white wedding. Walking art!
Vivienne Westwood presented amazing off kilter looks that magically played with human proportions. This mystery rich woman vacationing in the desert look is a personal favorite.
Yohji Yamamoto was at his very best with these feminine black and white looks. Love the unique sleeves and layering.
Like every one in this row, Ann Demeulemeester is known for doing the same but different, and like everyone mentioned as well, this season’s different was extraordinary. Her East meets West collection of floor skimming skirts, wide brimmed hats,double breasted jackets and fringe was quietly epic.
Givenchy, after a few stunning shows, was admittedly not my favorite, but this leather dimensional mini was pretty amazing.
A.F. Vandevorst’s drapey gothic mix of feminine and military could have walked off into the sunset with the Demeulemeester collection and lived happily ever after. Must figure out how to mimic this great small jacket, flowing top, skinny jeans look.
I am not a minimalist but this simple yet off kilter jacket by Nicholas Andreas Tralaris is spectacular.
Damir Doma, also following a dark feminine trail. The gold neckline of this gown is elegant and would be so awesome for holiday parties. The choker is a definite want.
What an unexpected surprise Valentino was! I almost feel bad being so in love with the collection when Valentino is no longer at the head, but with gorgeous silhouettes, wonderful embellishment and fun surprises (hints of black and neon on conservative beige!) this was one of the seasons bests.
Chanel was in a winter wonderland and finally making lots of flattering pieces. This puff sleeve pocketed eyelet dress is incredible.
Vuitton was on a similar brainwave with thier carousel of confectionery dresses. Kate Moss looks stunning in this full skirt mini – a silhouette I’d love to come to chain stores so the rest of us can try it.
Sophia Kokosalaki presented a beautiful collection. This fairy princess gown would be such a dream wedding gown.
Alexander McQueen continues to honor his legacy. This floor length beige lace gown.. wow. And it vaguely reminds me of one of my favorite dresses.
Balenciaga hasn’t been a personal favorite for a few seasons but all that stopped with this outrageously chic and stand alone collection. The long visor hats! The interesting silhouettes and materials, it all made for a eye opening experience that was truly unlike anything else seen this season.
Beige craze continues with this gorgeous flower of a dress. So pretty, too bad the chances of finding anything like it are slim.
Junya Wantanabe’s The Birds meets the British countryside collection – so great! Loved so much, but my heart stopped when I saw this cape jacket. What I wouldn’t do…
Usually I try to find trends that us normal people can use in shows, but frankly so much of Paris was uniquely high fashion that I’ve mostly just been in awe BUT here’s a look we can steal from. Love how Veronique Leroy uses a utilitarian color to toughen up the girlie pleated skirt and bow collar top. Also, think one color ensembles will be tres chic for spring.
Yellow looked bold and refreshing at Rykiel and this mustard canvas skirt is pretty killer. Love the idea of layering a skinny top with a tank too.
Kenzo was full of fun just look at this balloon pant, ruffle top outfit. This should not look good, and yet it does. Wonder if really full pants can be worn in real life?
There were so many Rue du Mail dresses I coveted that this was one of the hardest to choose a single image from. I especially love when they pull from romantic vintage inspiration.
Nina Ricci was also lovely and romantic, this ditsy confetti floral dress is just too cute for words.
Oh Carven, you have won my heart over and over. Neon tribal? Thank you, thank you!!
Miu Miu’s heavy jacquards rule and I think we will be seeing more of the trend in upcoming collections.
So much wearable wonderfulness from Sacai! I suddenly need a floral spring jacket and a see through pleated skirt. This look is too perfect.
More amazing looks after the jump.
Click here for the rest of Best of Paris Fashion Week
Textile ArtistMarimekko still inspires with their bold but simple designs. But who was behind those bright big poppies? A talented unique textile artist named Maija Isola.
The Finnish textile artist actually rebelled against a Marrimeko ban on florals to create her most lasting pieces and sacrificed quite a bit for her art. In order to travel for artistic inspiration, her daughter was mostly raised by her grandmother.
Her iconic designs can still be bought and might well be the most universally recognizable textiles ever made.
She passed away in 2001.
MuseFew people fit the description of style icon as completely as Loulou de la Falaise who passed away today at age 63.
Always impeccably stylish, she was a unique beauty with wide eyes, an impish grin and effortless elegance.
With her individual style usually consisting of lots of layered baubles, a timelessly chic wavy bob, skinny pants and perfect blouses, she was friend and muse to YSL who credited her with inspiring his tuxedo jackets.
A remarkably fashionable woman, who was after all, the daughter of a model and count, she also notably joyful. In nearly every photograph she is smiling or throwing her head back in laughter.
If anyone lived the idea of growing old gracefully it was her and I think that constant smile had something to do with it.
Love Mary Katrantzou and this floral puff of a dress is particularly wonderful. It’s like a happy explosion of spring at its best and a new silhouette which is a rare thing.
Peter Pilotto was another favorite collection. His use of Indonesian tropical prints was awesome, an interpretation that feels new and sexy.
Time to find all the floral prints we can, right? Erdem’s mixing of girlie patterns will have a huge influence on me (and probably many other girls itching to look dainty and pretty).
Christopher Kane was even softer and daintier than seasons past and this shimmering floral top and silver mini were the tops. This top just makes me happy to look at it.
David Koma reminded me of Tron and Grace Jones, so of course, in my opinion the collection ruled. The disco ball and neon stuff was fab but I’d really do just about anything to be able to pull off (and afford) this pink and white body con number. I hope this cut out design trend trickles down to the cheap mall stores, I really do.
Antonio Berardi took similar geo shapes and created a gorgeous collection of silky dresses, often dipped in rubies. So many pretty dresses to pick from, but I found these elaborately embellished leggings with the palest of pink blazers to be the most interesting look. And it continues the London influx of pink, which you’ll see more of very soon.
Fashion Fringe offered a great collection from Fyodor Golan, whose Birds meets Victorian goth gowns reflected their time as designers at Alexander McQueen. Love the fly away sleeves.
Julian MacDonald continues to wow me with his intricate details and this semi see-through gown is one of the most eye catching. It’s nothing we mere mortals could dream of replicating, but it’s the stuff day dreams of red carpets and special parties are made of.
I promised you would Think Pink! and this soft take on menswear from Thomas Tait was one of most unexpected places to find the feminine color. (Also, isn’t Tait just a total, wonky babe?)
Another shade of rose came alive in an adorable full skirt dress at Acne. Love that looks are continuing to be kind of buttoned up instead of overtly sexy.
A similar shape and more coral tone comes from Nicole Fahri. And aren’t you starting to ache for a pink dress of your own?
If not, this Roksanda Ilinic fuchsia knee length look, complete with matching hair should do the trick.
Burberry just can’t do any wrong in my eyes. Every collection has about ten looks I can’t choose from. This time it was perfectly pleated skirts, rad prints, cropped jackets and interesting color combinations that had me smiling. And those shoes, my goodness.
I’m not always drawn to simple looks, but Paul Smith showed that simple can be perfect. The neutral paired with bright yellow, the easy shoes and belt, man, even the fedora – a trend I thought had sh-t the bed, looks casually cool. If you saw this girl walking down the street, you’d yearn to be her friend and start looking for a yellow skirt.
Jonathan Saunders is usually a top favorite, but following the pastel trend, he wasn’t quite on my wave length. Still, there’s no denying the beauty in this layered look. Shades of grey and pale brights – must remember this pretty combination!
This Jaeger Collection bold striped retro dress is probably has the most in common with my own wardrobe, except I suspect it’s done in a finer fabric than polyester and cost more than $8 on ebay. Anyways, I love it.
Oh Sass and Bide, you make me happy! This bright vaguely ethnic gown is one of my top loves of the whole London shows. Ok, not to totally nerd out, but it’s what I would wear if I were Daenerys Targaryen.
Emilio de la Moreno was a near miss for me, but I was totally sucked into this crafty embroidered dress. Can’t even tell what it is exactly but I like.
Not a fan of all of what strutted down the JW Anderson runway but I would love to get my hands on this chain mail inspired flirty dress.
Love the shape of this Mark Fast mini. It was the freshest manifestation of his crochet fringe vision.
Ok, another typo – apologies – this lace meets psychedelic look is from Clements Ribeiro and it’s pretty darn fabulous. Who thought components as at odds as this would look so nice together. And who thought optic illusion prints could be cool again after the 1990’s?
Love the way this black and white photo print cuts to color. A wild look but also totally wearable.
Peter Jensen showed a lot of copyable looks but I loved this prom dress over button down the most.
Willow took their theme and ran with it, and it resulted in this stunning, dreamy and strange dress.
After the jump see other excellent looks and soon I’ll have Milan and Paris for you.
Click here for the rest of Best of London Fashion Week
I thought I was disappointed in NY Fashion Week, maybe just because so much threw me for a loop, but I ended up with tons of favorite looks to sort through, so I guess it was pretty rad after all.
One of the raddest collections was 10 Crosby Derek Lam. This mix of bold Hawaiian print (a trend I am usually weary of) paired with the black and white pencil skirt is odd which everyone was all about – but unlike man – it looks sleek, stylish and wearable. How can we pull this off I wonder? I doubt a tight skirt pulled over a longer dress is the easiest combo, but I plan on trying it.
In the topsy turvydom of the week, it was J Crew that turned up some of the freshest and most wearable outfits. I had lots of great looks to pick from but am totally in love with the denim shirt paired with a shimmery midi skirt. Addition of bright red summer pumps a plus – their stylist deserves an awesome vacation.
I love the proportions and pattern mix of this Edun look a ton. The origami folds in the billowy top look great with a cropped jacket and that little peek of plaid. Have the cropped jacket, but no blouse as awesome as this.. wonder where I can find something similar for an easy Spring weekend getup.
Suno delivered with excellent silhouettes like this Amish-chic set that looks as unique as it does classic. Proof that their more than their bold prints (which I still kind of missed in this collection).
First, apologies for the misspelling – we’re working on almost no sleep here and I am too lazy to go back in and fix it, (so let’s forgive any other misspellings I haven’t caught while we’re at it). Anyways, another great look from Derek Lam and one that we can all pull of ourselves probably with item already in the closet. I am not a pants kind of girl but this combo makes me what to break out the couple pairs I own and get layering.
Nerd chic was everywhere. Awkward was the vibe of the hour but almost no one got it right like Jil Sander Navy. The over all collection left a great impression but I picked this subdued ensemble for it’s tonal layering and the great edge the leather skirt gives to the look. Leather skirts usually look so Gucci, but here it’s total Miranda July. Plus I need those shoes.
Never thought I’d love a Tory Birch collection so much. The whole essence of the collection transported me to some fictional 1920’s rich person holiday yet it never felt like costume.
Also with a vacationing flapper vibe, but far more bizarre was Thom Browne, which managed to push the envelope while remaining interesting and stylish. Should he be tapped for Dior?
Some of the best prints came from unexpected places like this kitty design at Victoria by Victoria Beckham (also misspelled, oops). Love the laid back cut of this dress too. Yes, I would love to wear this please!
If I had to pick one swimsuit for next summer this Peter Som zebra head two piece would definitely be it.
Doro Oluwu is always great with the patterns and this collection didn’t disappoint. this fitted cardigan look is perfect. Must seek out lots of easy floral dresses this spring, I think.
Anna Sui is always doing her same song and dance but that doesn’t mean their aren’t fantastic looks to be had. This sketchy stripe is super fun with the 1940’s inspiration and even better in a turban. If I could make this my early spring hat, I would be glowing with happiness.
As a young vintage obsessive, I remember being really excited when Imitation of Christ first started, then it kind of fizzled and went away, right? Well this collection was a major comeback and I loved many of the pieces. In particular, the over-sized corsage lace number on the right? I would have happily gotten married in that.
Lace was used in interesting ways this season. I love Preen’s pairing with neon and bit map prints, turning very “girlie” elements into something slightly and strangely futuristic.
Never been a huge Ports 1961 fan that I can recall, but really liked this collection. I could probably never pull off something so tight, but that doesn’t stop me from absolutely loving this wrapped up mini.
Pastels were huge but pastels are tough. Philip Lim got it right with this easy, slouchy look which somehow makes lilac trousers look like they should be a wardrobe staple.
Spring was not all about pretty pale colors though, some stuff stayed gothy, like this XO print cape from Libertine that just floored me with its awesomeness.
Also found myself very drawn to Threeasfour’s culty, witchy, fishnetty prints and punk layering dresses. This is a look impossible to replicate but I feel like I could find something that plays on the same Alistair Crowley meets 1992 vibe.
While I am no minimalist at heart, I have always loved me some Helmut Lang.. but what about the label without the man himself? Turns out I like that too. This complicated bodice dress is as wearable as it is a work of art.
Really digging the Francesc by Frank Tell vibe too – lots of leather and lace – a little something for Stevie and Don Henley.
For the first time in years, found the Marc line a little boring, but can’t resist this flapper dress/office girl look from the main line. Shimmering, pretty, but very unique. A huge love.
Not the biggest fan on jumpers, but this silvery, lace sleeved number from Rebecca Taylor is quite pretty and could even be flattering.
Prabal Gurung’s bold strokes of vibrant purple were memorable and lovely next to the clean crisp whites.
The season was all about the white dress. There were so many lovely ones, but my favorite was this draped light as air dress from Doo. Ri
See more great looks after the jump!
Click here for the rest of Best of New York Fashion Week
Artist of ScarvesAnyone that’s bought a from a vintage shop will likely find a Vera Neumann scarf in their drawers. But lest you think she and her work are just old fashioned though – you’ll find that she’s having a bit of a resurgence.
Anthropologie has a We Love Vera collection based on her work and her website is very modern with a “bright, happy, inspirational” blog that was surprisingly excellent (I wish blogs as loving existed for more of my favorite people).
A creative woman who followed her passion for painting into success, Vera soon found her scarves gracing the necks of women like Grace Kelly, and in an iconic shot, the naked torso of Marilyn Monroe.
She was nothing if not prolific and her happy painted flowers, geometrics, and suns have made the world a more beautiful place.
