Places to Visit »Paris

Paris is a spectacular shopping town and in our short trip we limited our scope to two main areas: the Marais and Saint Germaine. After a dreamy and hazy and cold walk over the famed Le Pont Alexander III bridge we came to the neighborhood of Saint Germain and the inspiring Bon Marche. Filled with the latest in clothes and accessories in beautiful colors, it's a must stop for fashion minded visitors. There were also many great children's shops in the area like the elegant Bonpoint and the much more affordable Du Pareil au meme.

For fashion forward adults, I highly recommend the concept store Colette, where the latest and most avant garde pieces are on display. Much like Dover Street Market in London, it's more like a museum of the latest style than a store. Here you can also find some wild and fun gray nail polish from Uslu airlines brand.

La Marais was my most favorite neighborhood we visited with quaint winding streets, beautiful architecture and laid back atmosphere. It's is the center of the gay city presence (and you know they always live in the city's best neighborhoods) and historically been the center of the Jewish community in Paris. We found some exceptional (and pricey) children's boutiques including Fifi de Vem, Baby Beluga and Bon Ton which are both within walking distance to the world's most beautiful square Place des Vosges.

For adults with a penchant for the avant garde, the Tsumori Chisato shop is wort a visit and I took advantage of a major sale at Surface to Air where I purchased an awesome full skirt that has had people asking me (for the first time and likely the last) if I happen to be wearing Balenciaga, ha!

Our Hotel Monna Lisa was nice enough with little in way of frills except for an amazing shower with six shower heads. It was dreamy and made the five euro cost of water a bit easier to bear. Located near the Arche de Triomphe, it wasn't perfectly centrally located for our purposes, but would not be a terrible place to stay in general. The subway system is flawless, though make sure you keep your stub as enforcers periodically ask for them to insure you've paid to ride (one local girl did not and was brought to tears when issued a ticket). I also learned that you have to press a button for some of the train doors to open which will help you from looking like a fool like I did.

Other good tips are to bring a phone card – we had to call via a service using our credit cards and the cost was phenomenal and bring a watch because no one in Paris will be as concerned with the time like an uptight New Yorker on holiday.

Overall, Paris is exactly as you've heard – every corner offers more beauty but unlike you may have heard, I found everyone to be exceptionally nice and accommodating. Here are more photos.

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Spend a Couple Minutes »Eiffel Tower

eiffel towerThere's something a little sad about having an empty hotel room to come home to on your birthday – but before you bring out the violins for yours truly, I should say that nothing can ease that tinge of sadness than having just been to the Eiffel tower on a clear dark night.

It was around 11:30 when we went to the tower after a very pleasant meal that included foie gras (another reason not to pity me) so it was too late to go up, but just wandering beneath it was a thrill.

Designed by Gustave Eiffel in the late 1880s, the magnificent structure is a perfect argument for form over function and has become the icon of the Parisian skyline. Take that Barcelona who balked at the “a strange and expensive construction”.

Lately the tower explodes into a strobe light party every few hours, which we witnessed from a distance on our first night. Locals find it garish, and they might be right, but I love being wrong and touristy and finding it giddily fun.

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Spend a Couple Hours »Tuileries Gardens and Jeu de Paume

toulleries gardensBetween shopping we managed to squeeze in some of the sites, and to my delight strolled through the famous Tuileries Gardens on our way to the Saint Germaine neighborhood. The garden begins at Concorde square, where the obelisk and gilded fountain stand and where among many others, Marie Antoinette was beheaded. At the end of the beautiful gardens stand the Louvre. In between are reflecting pools, classical and modern sculpture and the kind of place to jog, walk, relax, or sketch that makes me envious of the locals.

Nearby is Galerie nationale du Jeu de Paume, a place also not without its dark past. During World War II, Nazis held a bonfire on the grounds to destroy “degenerate” art including Picassos and Dalis. Today it stands as a museum with a focus on photography and one that is open until 9pm, making it a perfect spot to get in some culture after shops had closed.

On exhibit was a Robert Frank Americas show where his famous and stunning candid portraits were juxtaposed with his work in Paris. For once, Americans seem cooler: the photos boast a free, new world compared to the old world beauty of his work on France. The exhibit was crowded with Paris' young and hip. Also on display were the large photos of Sophie Ristelhueber which were interesting, but less memorable.

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Drinks »Quince Aperitif

quince aperitifThe waiter at L'epi Dupin was extremely proud of this aperitif and in a discussion of broken French and English begged us to guess to intriguing and lovely taste. Without highly sophisticated palettes we guessed grapes and pears, but were told with great enthusiasm “Non, quince!”. It certainly made sense then that it paired so fantastically with out cheese plate.

Coming home, I've yet to find a bottle of the French traditional aperitif described in this article:

“In France, there is even a traditional homemade aperitif wine in which white wine is infused with quince and vanilla, sweetened with sugar, and fortified with eau de vie.”

but I was able to find a couple simple recipes to make it yourself: a couple use brandy, a couple use vodka. I'm not sure if these will be the same as the French version we tried, but I can imagine neither would hurt you.

There are also a couple Slovenian bottled brands: Fricko and Imperia, but like most things I imagine the home made version is preferable.

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Desserts »Hibiscus Macroons

hibiscus macroons bon marcheFrom their happy, girly shades to the delicacy of the cookie itself, French Macaroons have to be one of the most perfectly adorable sweets invented. We ate at La Duree, one of Paris' most famous spot for purchasing these edible little pieces of art – where original owner Pierre Desfontaines Ladur?e created the modern “French” style macaroon.

Not to be confused with coconut macaroons, or the amaretti Italian cookies that inspired them (which I recommended a few weeks back), the French or more specifically Laduree, made the traditional cookie all their own.

I couldn't handle having cookies for breakfast though (instead opted for an amazing omelette), so I waited until later in the day and picked up a few hibiscus flavored ones at the gourmet grocery store in Le Bon Marche (which I suspect may have come from LaDuree anyway).

Just look at the delectable hue! I was almost sad to eat them, but not sad enough to refrain. The light crumbly cookies and the slight layer of ganache are irresistible. These are an absolute must on any trip to Paris.

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Restaurants »Paris Roundup

brie at lepi dupinUnlike in London, I was not surprised at all that we were able to eat well in Paris. While many places in our books and research were either very high priced of cheapy quick bites, we managed to find some middle ground beginning with the first and perhaps the best meal of the trip at L'epi Dupin.

I considered this restaurant our reward for not having eaten since 9 am and trekking through cold rain to shop. Down a side street near Bon Marche, the place was intimidating at first to two non French speakers, but the staff was extremely patient and kind and explained each dish on the pre fixe menu for us.

Both Kara's cumin crusted fish and my veal were superb and our shared chocolate desserts: chocolate french toast and souffle were highlights. This is the place that also introduced me to quince aperitif that matched beautifully with our brie plate.

The next morning (my birthday) greeted us with our best breakfast of the trip at the famous and elegant Laduree, where even the bathroom is photo worthy. Known for their pastries and macaroons in particular, I can attest that their namesake omelet and cappuccinos are just as rave worthy. The croissant here was also probably the best I've ever tasted.

That night we made our way to the 7th arrondisement so that we could eat dinner and walk to the Eiffel tower. Without a specific plan we found a cozy family run bistro with a pre fixe. Here I indulged in foie gras, sea bass, chocolate tart and creme brulee. It was a very comfortable and friendly spot.

Our trip was sprinkled with little sandwich shops and bistros where we grabbed quick though not extraordinary meals but one place we came across is worth noting, even if we didn't eat there: L'ecume St-Honore, a downright adorable fresh, open air raw bar. My coworker is not a raw eater, so it's the very first thing on my list if I ever manage to make it back to Paris.

Our last night landed us in the middle of some sort of fashiony event at the slightly out of the way Tokyo Eat, which to our surprise did not serve Japanese food, but rather modern takes on French classic dishes. Here I enjoyed two typically French foods: beef tartare and escargot that made my trip feel complete. The escargot was particularly memorable in its unique presentation as a garlic and parsley soup with tender bits of escargot inside with a buttery cheese filled pastry stick on the side. Oh, yum…

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Style Icons: Female »Lou Doillon

lou dillionAs you might be able to tell from a perusal of my style icons, I have a hard time identifying with the fashionable of my generation?but there's just something special about Lou Doillon. It could be those quirky good looks she inherited from her gangly beauty of a mother, it could be those top hats and suspenders with high waist that have earned her a job as fashion designer (an honor bestowed on all sorts of vaguely famous youth – but this time perhaps to justifiable ends?), or it could be that one of her few titles in a meager career as an “actress” includes a Chloe Sevigny remake of Brian De Palma's brilliant split screen thriller Sisters.

But no, no obviously no! That last one is no way to make friends with me and certainly no way to get on my style list, so there must be something else to make me so utterly enchanted with the titless it girl of the moment.

And that something is this spectacular shoot in the spectacular French Playboy. I've mentioned it here before, and still the rabbit ears and short alls rouse me with their flat out coolness. Ahh, j'tiame Lou sans v?tements! (Pardon my French).

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Style Icons: Male »Courreges

courregesThere is a Courreges coffee shop in Paris, but in two short days we weren't able to stop in (another one for next time) but it shows that the spirits of country's master of futuristic fashion is still alive and well in Paris.

To me, Courreges represents a different part of French style than the simple, elegant but easy minimalist tradition: a part that is bold and a little crazy (but still uncluttered); a part that shook the world of fashion to its core in the mid sixties with a vision of the future that still feels ahead of its time.

He may not have actually made the fashions in 2001: A Space Odyssey, but I think it's fair to assume Kubrick was inspired by his space age vision.

The label still exists but here is the tragic story (according to FashionSpot):

“In 1985 Courreges had to sell control of his fashion house to the Japanese ready-to-wear firm , ITOKAN who agreed to support the loss-making couture side of the business. The money continued to flow down the drain. In 1985 the couture side of Courreges' business was closed, with virtually no consultation. Courreges was aghast and went on strike to gain public sympathy. This he achieved in a way that could only happen in Paris where even today, couture is considered the single truly artistic form of dressmaking. Everybody, including the French government which thought that ITOKAN had given a promise to maintain Courreges' couture, was shocked – but powerless because Courreges had signed away control to the Japanese firm .

Courreges later died of cancer ( and indeed a broken heart ) and his wife continued with the house for a time , only to be sacked by ITOKAN when business did not pick up .

That's why you see items labeled ' COURREGES ' in the Far-East , but seldom in Europe or the USA.”

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Hunks »Vincent Cassel

vincent casselI first saw the glorious visage of Vincent Cassel well over ten years ago in a film that's gradually developed quite a cult following and spawned a spanking new two disc Criterion release, La Haine. For a young woman with a thing for extreme facial features, I had hit romantic daydream paydirt.

Since then I've enjoyed him throwing around some crazy weaponry with his gorgeous wife Monica Bellucci (with whom he has a lovely daughter named Deva, who is likely to become the most uniquely beautiful woman in the world) in Brotherhood of the Wolf, but had missed him on the screen until his prominently eye baggy performance in Eastern Promises.

It's not that he's been totally absent, I just don't think I can stomach the still controversial Irreversible and, despite all the good things people have said, I can't bring my self to deal with the smugly self congratulatory Danny Ocean series.

According to imdb, Cassel's upcoming projects include an Orlando Bloom thrilled called The Cross.

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Posted on March 2, 2009

Albums »Bambi Is Dead

bambi is dead juan d'oultermontI was taken instantly with the poppy, breezy and eccentric Bambi is Dead by Juan D'oultremont, but I've been having a hard time finding out much about the artist. I assumed (from the silly rebelliousness of the title and the very modern art on the cover) that I was dealing with some young hipster, a French version of Vincent Gallo with more talent and a healthy obsession with Serge Gainsbourg — the album even has a Bardotesque sexy giggle in (perhaps) tribute to the sultry sleazster (Marrer Noire) and I could have sworn the track Japonais was a Serge cover!

I was finally able to find out (surprise, surprise!) that rather than some snot nose youth, D'oultremont is in his fifties – the same ripe old age Serge was when he was doing his best work like Brix Picks fave L'Homme a tete de chou. This informative bio (a rare one that's not in French) makes Juan sound pretty incredible:

If art is being where nobody's waiting for you, then Juan d'Outremont certainly is an artist. Performances, novels, theater plays, video clips, and even a few hit songs ?Record sleeves for Blue Note Records and appearances in a radio program for RTBF (the success show “Jeu des dictionnaires”). Colourless Belgian flags for people suffering from daltonism and erotic drawings?br/>

The album itself has only one flaw: it's far, far too short. Every song is dynamic and interesting – so much so that I can't even choose a favorite without listening to the entire track list.

I have no idea if another album is in the works, and I don't even remember how I stumbled across this one in the first place – but I do know that for some reason this album, that you can't even buy on Amazon, is available on iTunes, so have at it if you're a fan of French pop sounds of yesteryear.

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Posted on March 2, 2009