Style Icons: Male »Wenceslaus Hollar

Wenceslaus HollerNot only was Mr Wenceslaus Hollar one of the foremost engravers of his time, and his depiction of London before the great fire invaluable, but he also bit of awesomeness called Women's Fashions of the 17th Century.

This work was not commissioned, (as far as I can find in my not so thorough research) he just had a fascination with women's fashion and because of him we have an idea of what the finest threads were back then. It was hundreds of years later, in the 19th century when magazine finally began depicting drawings of the latest styles.

This site has sixteen of these great illustrations for you viewing pleasure, reprinted from English Costume: Tudor and Stuart by Dion Clayton Calthrop.

Boldly wikipedia claims ” No one that ever lived has been able to represent fur, or shells, or a butterfly's wing as he has done.”

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Posted on September 1, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Thierry Mugler

thierry mugler motorcycle corsetThierry Mugler is a big, beefy, insect-like German whose clothes are perhaps as equally inspired by bugs as his major physique. Also drawing from the 1940s, science fiction, fetishism, and pop art, his designs were tough, dramatic, other-worldly, and extreme. I say “were” because sadly, his radical work wasn't really accepted after the roaring 80's and now he mostly produces beauty products like perfume.

His clothing has not gone completely without a home, in 2003 he designed costumes for (appropriately) Cirque du Soleil's first adults-only show, Zumanity. You'll be pleased to learn that he hasn't lost his touch: the stage was teeming with men in butt-less leather pants and stone washed jeans (no kidding!), and women in various teeny-tiny outfits made of beads, fringe and see-through nylon. It's the perfect venue for his over the top fun tackiness.

Of course, I think we all remember his work from George Michael's Too Funky video (see this week's song) where all the day's most spectacular models and odd lovelies walked the runway in his outrageous creations, most famously Rebecca Romijn in the motorcycle corset.

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Posted on August 25, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Mel Roberts

mel roberts photographerMel Roberts' vividly bright, playful homo erotic photography of his friends and lovers in 1960's southern California ironically have a sort of fun innocence to them, an innocence of a time before STDs and AIDS. Ironic, because at the time, they were considered anything but innocent.

In fact, sadly Roberts livelihood and life were thrown upside down when his photos were deemed pornography and false accusations that his models were under age (they were not) opened the door for a police raid on his home in 1977.

Nearly forgotten by the public since then, when the business nude photos became more and more dirty, he has lately gained some popularity and recognition with a new generation. His work is sold at Homobilia, shown at museums (The Erotic Museum had a exhibit of his work called California Boys in 2005), been compiled in a books (The Wild Ones and California Boys) and Elton John is among his many private collectors.

Personally, I love the colors and I relish in the unashamed joy captured. I am of the thinking that joy and happy colors should go hand and hand with sexuality- but I know that sentiment isn't always shared in this country.

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Posted on August 18, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Kihachiro Onitsuka

Kihachiro Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66With the Summer Olympics underway, I should probably include something sporty in this week's list. Honestly though, I'm so out of it with the whole thing that when a co-worker told me there were photos of the Opening Ceremony online, I thought she meant a new location of the clothing store…

Still, I watch Project Runway and being an Olympian seems pretty cool. Also cool? Kihachiro Onitsuka, manufacturer of the coolest sneakers out there.

I admit, I'm not sneaker crazy, but these are usually the only ones in the store that I totally could go for. I love that they've stayed true to original vintage designs, but I also love that they've stayed relevant and modern with their poppy colors.

The man himself, who passed away last year at age 89, was as radical as his designs. According to his company's site he spent “years in the military and having worked for a company who bought and sold beer on the black market” before he began manufacturing shoes. He found inspiration in octopus suction cups, he worked with marathon runners to fix the major problem of blisters, and he was an awesome boss who in 1958, “decided that Onitsuka should not become a family-run business, but an employee-run business. He distributed 70 percent of the shares to his employees.”

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Posted on August 11, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Rene Magritte

magritteRene Magritte was a man born before his time, he initially met with wild criticism and limited acceptance–even today, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art was able to purchase his Ceci n'est pas une Pipe from Sotheby's for a paltry $115,000.

The man really got his due back when his work was on the cover of Jackson Browne album in 1974 (and later Styx – the one with Come Sail Away). Apparently he just had to wait until the population was a bit more burnt out from a decade of drugs.

His art, like the witty Ceci n'est pas une Pipe, L'Empire des Lumieres and Le fils de L'homme are instantly recognizable and have been sited in or influenced such diverse works as The Simpsons, The Exorcist and Naked Lunch respectively.

You can see L'Empire des Lumieres at the Guggenheim, The Eternally Obvious at the Met, and several at the MoMa including The Portrait, an awesome still life with a seeing eye slice of ham.

While his work is fun and imaginative, his own life was no bed of surreal roses. It's believed that the frequently used image of someone's head covered in fabric was inspired by seeing his own mother's body pulled from the river with her dress obscuring her face after she committed suicide.

Still, he ended up with a stunning career, counted Dali among his friends, and married a beautiful woman who he grew old with holidaying in Cannes.

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Posted on August 4, 2008

Style Icons: Male »David Hicks

david hicks interiorDavid Hicks was as volatile as his rooms were tranquil and lush. In his obituary (he died in 1998) he is described as having an “apoplectic rage” and his wife said, ''He was an absolute volcano to live with, but so life enhancing, I already miss his slamming of doors.”

While I'm not quite envious of that part of his legacy, I've recently become very envious of anyone who can put a room together with flair for interior decorating. It may be the fact that I have a bit too much stuff for my abode or that Jim has a soft spot for plastic bins, but I can't manage to keep most of my apartment from looking like we just moved in. I've decided to do a thing or two about it, but that's another tale.

I have no illusions that I could possibly the luxurious career of Hicks, whose clients included Helena Rubenstein, Prince Charles, Princess Anne, and King Fahd as well as the interiors for the Julie Christie film (and Brix Pick) Petulia. But we can all at least be inspired by the extensive archive on this site, curated by his son Ashley, who carries on the design tradition.

These images are just so fun. Imagine sitting in this corner, organizing your porcelain, or greeting your roaming peacock during breakfast in this informal kitchen at your country estate, or gazing at your Bill Blass heavy wardrobe while bathing in this indescribable room, or starting a torrid affair with a David Bailey type in this sauna.

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Posted on July 28, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Joe Don Baker

joe don bakerJoe Don Baker kicks ass. Seeing him strut around the BBC (in this week's TV pick Edge of Darkness) this week made me realize my deep appreciation for the man. As my list of beloved character actors grows, I am realizing I've actually seen very little of Baker's hailed and popular roles. Sure, now that you mention it, I remember his stint as a bad guy in Golden Eye and Tomorrow Never Dies, and I recall him vaguely as Babe Ruth when we watched The Natural in High School, but I am mostly a fan of the big guy from the work he might not want mentioned too often.

For starters he is just plain awesome as ma-ma-ma-ma-Mitchell, one of the greatest MST3K episodes ever. He plays, as Time Out said in their review of the film when it was released “a big lumpy cop” who (according to the New York Times review) “spends what seems to be the greater part of the film climbing in and out of automobiles, driving automobiles, chasing other automobiles, parking automobiles, and leaning against the body of automobiles that are temporarily at rest.”??br/>
Most importantly I have to give credit to his spectacular turn as an old guy who hates video arcades in the classic, our all time favorite, teen sex comedy Joy Sticks. I honestly admire these performances, and once you see Edge of Darkness, you'll agree that there is talent and charm under all that accent and beer weight. I plan to revel in more of his talents by putting Walking Tall and Charley Varrick on my netflix queue.

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Posted on July 21, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Frank Zappa

frank zappaIn the 1970s rock scene, where a sea of men and women were declared geniuses, it seems like Frank Zappa was the real deal; a brilliant mind that everyone can agree on. You may not like everything he does, I certainly don't, but you can't ignore his imagination, his inventiveness, and his audacity.

My favorite album is Hot Rats, which features the amazing Willie the Pimp on which his good friend Captain Beefheart sings. This connection is how he becomes a central character in Pamela Des Barres's 'I'm With the Band', this week's book and current obsession. Reading about the way he just fabricated scenes, lived his own way, and nurtured creativity has got me even more intrigued by the charming, tall, mustached master mind.

There's so much to explore in his thirty year career, not only as a musician and artist, but as a critic of organized religion and drugs and an advocate of free speech. In fact, the first time I ever heard his name was when he spoke eloquently at the PMRC censorship hearings against Tipper Gore.

I've really only scratched the surface, but he's created so much work that I could easily come back to his catalog for inspiration for many years to come.

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Posted on July 14, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Jim Croce and Maury Muehleisen

Maury Muehleisen and Jim CroceThere are lots of reasons to love the dynamic duo of Jim Croce and Maury Muehleisen. I love that they were like best friends that made music together and sang songs that cried:

“Nobody loves a fat girl
But oh how a fat girl can love
Nobody seems to want me
I'm just a truck upon the highway of love”

I love Jim's boisterous ying to Maury's calm yang. I love their legions of fans who gather at Jim's grave on meetings called “The Gathering”. I love that at such gathering in 1988 they conjured up the ghosts of Jim and Maury with a group hug.

What other rock duo would come back from the dead for such a simple gesture. Sonny and Cher? I doubt it.

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Posted on July 7, 2008

Style Icons: Male »Ralph Lauren

ralph laurenEven though the Ralph Lauren look has never been one I adopt verbatim, there is no denying the ingenuity of the brand in re-imagining and selling a truly American sensibility. It's the ultimate paradox of appreciating our hard working and rugged past then making it only accessible to the elite.

Growing up I was struck by the enviable images of wealth and sport: menacingly gorgeous elite families that played cricket together somewhere in New England. Men who owned private jets but put on cowboy hats when they landed, their severe hot wives wearing paisley like it was her only job (aside from hiring and firing help). Perfect Anglo Americans swathed in Native American ponchos (and blood?)

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Posted on June 30, 2008