Restaurants »Mercat

mercatThis was a reservation I was looking forward to with glee. A new, well reviewed tapas restaurant right near my office and I couldn't wait to try it, though I did have to wait three weeks to get a reservation (note: if you come early enough, before 8, you can probably just walk in).

The meal began with two exceptional dishes; a large plate of the most amazing Serrano ham I have ever tried, so good, the $14 price tag was immediately forgiven; and the surprise highlight of the evening: toasted bread with olive oil and tomatoes. I don't know how they elevated such simple ingredients into such an lofty culinary experience, but I guess it goes to show, sometimes simpler is better.

The meal took a slight bump at the next course, potatoes with alioli. Part of the problem was my own expectations, I was imagining a potato salad with garlic much like the small dish I've had at other Spanish places, but what we got was a mix between home fries and french fries with a spicy sauce smeared all over it. I would not order this again as it brought an unpleasant heaviness to the meal. That being said, we ate the whole plate, because hey, fried potatoes taste good even if they aren't worth writing home about.

Next we tried the razor clams, a favorite delicacy of ours. It measured somewhere in the middle of all our razor clam experiences, only failing to measure up for their chewiness. The seasoning was great though and I would order this again.

The last of our savory dishes was the cuddle fish noodle in ink, a plate recommended online in many people's reviews. We found it interesting, tasting of the sea. I personally thought it could have benefited from another flavor to balance the intensity of the fish, but was impressed to be eating something unlike anything I've had before.

The dessert was churros with thick bittersweet chocolate dipping sauce. As you can imagine, this was really tasty.

Mercat is great for a nice evening out, just bear in mind that the bill can add up, so be prepared to just go with it. I would stick to the simpler dishes and avoid the fried selections. Also, as the evening goes on the noise level reportedly becomes unreasonably loud, a small price to pay for a seat at one of the newest dining darlings with a menu as enticing as this one.

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Posted on August 13, 2007

Restaurants »Kitchen Delight

kitchen delightKitchen Delight is such a dream come true, I almost don't want to talk about it too much for fear of jinxing it and finding it was only a dream. Good, juicy, perfectly cooked burgers for a cheap price on my way home from work. Who could ask for more?

The space, formerly occupied by the “ehh” restaurant Bean is still tiny and hole in the wallesque, but now boasts really impressive food. The sliders and deluxe burger are outstanding, and I have been told that the veggie burger is equally impressive (though I of course will not be trying it). The cheese steaks have yet to pass my lips, as I'm finding it too hard to pass up the burger, but I assume they are made with as much care.

Also on the menu: thick frothy milk shakes and classic BBQ-style sides like macaroni and potato salad. Like other good spots in the neighborhood (see Noodle Studio) it suffers from less than stellar signage (anyone else reminded of Chef Boyardee?) and floats just under the popular radar, at least for now.

I am awaiting the inevitable day that foodies and chowhounds discover there is a new great burger in town that doesn't require an hour wait in line (yet) and doesn't cost 30 dollars. I just want to thank the guys behind this restaurant for making a little dream come true.

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Posted on August 6, 2007

Restaurants »Grimaldi’s

grimaldi's pizzaThere's something so wonderful about eating at a place that's an institution, a place hyped and talked about for decades, a place with a consistent long line to get in, and then discovering that it's totally as good as you had hoped.

Grimaldi's pizza deserves all the accolades and praise. The crust is a spectacular mix of doughy and crunchy (but not too crunchy) and our toppings of garlic and sausage were excellent.

Don't be too intimidated by the line, either, it moves quickly and efficiently, and most of the people are in huge groups, so if it's just you and a friend, you'll be eating in no time. The space is bustling and cramped, but that intimacy and chaos adds, rather than detracts from the experience.

There are no slices here, and a small was plenty for the two of us, but you must bring your appetite. I'm sure they have doggie bags, but it seems wussy to use them. The location is ideal for a stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge afterwards, an overplayed but, nevertheless, quite lovely experience on a nice summer evening.

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Posted on July 30, 2007

Restaurants »Dressler

dresslerFrom the Terence Stamp doppelganger Maitre de, to the intricate nouveau ironwork, to the pricey but oh so worth it menu, it's like owner Colin Devlin (also owner of Dumont and Dumont Burger) brought in his fabulous stylist friend who once did Bjork's hair or something into Brooklyn to fancy it up a bit, not that a neighborhood with million dollar lofts needs a lot of sprucing up… but, it worked.

Dressler merited an unexpected two stars from notoriously tough New York Times food critic Frank Bruni. After one visit, I can see why.

I began my meal with the Gretch, a crazy strong martini made of gin and a splash of cucumber infused vermouth. Remarkably, the dish I keep raving about is the chilled pea soup. It was so refreshing and uniquely flavored that I wish it could be packaged and a pint of it could be kept in my fridge at all times. I mean it was daydream yummy. If a restaurant can elevate a simple traditional soup like that, then it's no surprise the other dishes were great too.

Jim enjoyed the rack of lamb which came with an appetizing garlic flan, while I opted for the soup and the roasted quail appetizer. The quail was crispy and succulent with excellent ham and grits accompanying it–hearty without being heavy.

We had planned on coming to this fancy-occasion, eclectic reviewer darling since my birthday in February, but a very nasty sinus infection got in the way. Good things come to those who wait, I guess, as this was one of the nicest overall dining experiences of the year.

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Posted on July 23, 2007

Restaurants »Momofuku Ssam

momofuku ssamDing, ding, ding! We have a major contender for my “best of” week with this trendy east village critical darling. Chef David Chang has gained copious amounts of praise and awards for this and his noodle bar and, as inevitably always happens with that kind of success, he has also endured some backlash, debate and outright feuding .

I myself was very skeptical of this incarnation of his peachy logoed empire because I was so nonplussed with the noodle bar. Aside from only having stools for seating (I know, I have to get over it) the ramen itself, while tasty, was neither as tasty or inexpensive as other options. The same might be said for the price of the bahn mi and other dishes at Ssam if it weren't for the fact that they do actually rival the best versions in the city.

There are other unfamiliar dishes which are exotic and daring, and I got excited just looking at all the crazy stuff I could try. We ended up with the bahn mi (again, delicious) and the grilled lemongrass pork sausage (a gourmet version of the vietnamese pork dish you hand roll in lettuce with mint, carrots, and cucumber).

Also on the menu are the spectacular Steamed Buns, which followed from the noodle bar menu and deserve the crowd favorite reputation that proceeds them. Our friends ordered a chicken rolled in chicken thing that looked amazing and was eaten in about five seconds flat, and I got to try their really spicy squid salad and I'm forever grateful to them for it.

It's hard to explain how these small dishes had such an impact, but I think the simple fact is that this restaurant just serves amazing food. (Please note, this review is for the after 6pm menu).

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Posted on July 16, 2007

Restaurants »L’Ecole

l'ecoleL'ecole is the restaurant attached to the French Culinary Institute and everything you eat is from the aspiring chefs in training. The Institute offers both recreational cooking classes and professional classes and the restaurant where these teachings are put to the test is nothing short of excellent and for only forty dollars per person for a five course meal, the elegant feast was even more pleasing.

We got the evening rolling with delicious cocktails (not included in the pre fixe price); for the first course, I had the escargot: a tender traditional take on the garlicky goodie that was as good as the best I've had. The second course was a fish option and we each tried different options, but all of them surprised us by being the best part of the whole meal. For a main entree, I tried a delicacy I have always wanted to try, sweetbreads (calf pancreas, to be more specific). They were breaded and fried and tasted a bit like a dreamy, creamy, custardy breaded eggplant. Before dessert, an amazing goat cheese and beet sorbet salad was served to cleanse the palate, this was another highlight.

My dessert of floating islands was delightful and when we stepped out into the evening with full bellies and full wallets, smiles broke out all around. L'Ecole's menu is constantly changing, so never expect the same meal, and reservations can be hard to get, keep an eye out on opentable for your chance at a decent time slot. Along with the five course pre fixe, there is a three course lunch as well as an early dinner four course option.

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Posted on July 9, 2007

Restaurants »The Dosa Cart

dosa cartWhat could be more free spirited than running a street cart and truly being independent of he hassles of a 24/7 shop. New York Magazine has a pretty in-depth article on our local food purveyors that's pretty interesting and worth a read, it was there that I found out about The Dosa Cart (number 16 on their top 20 carts).

There will be a line when you go (unless you are very lucky), but it moves quickly. Thiru Kumar, the owner, has a mega moustache to be proud of and his food is equally impressive. Costing much less than other local dosa places (Hampton Chutney, you disappointed me) there are more options than most carts.

You can get different kinds of dosas, savory pancakes, and noodles, among many other appetizers and meals. I opted for the classic Masala Dosa: a crispy rice and lentil crepe stuffed with onions and potatoes, and a vegetable roll. My only complaint is that I probably picked the wrong combo, the starter and main dish were very similar. Everything comes with a coconut chutney and a lentil soup. Both are good, but the chutney is way beyond good–an excellent topper to the dosa.

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Posted on July 2, 2007

Restaurants »Fette Sau

fette sauMost reviews can't help but remark on the trucker hats and ironic tee shirts (neither of which were actually present when I ate here, nor in the photographs of the restaurant in said reviews, Time Out, I am looking at you) as if such self hating and coolness finger pointing has anything to do with the only thing that matters, the food.

Of course ambience is important, and Fette Sau creates a laid back open space that feels like it has been there forever, if BBQ joints actually looked this deterioratingly elegant forever ago. The walls are decorated with technical beef illustrations and the bar is the kind you wouldn't mind spending a booze hound's amount of time at. You certainly wouldn't mind if you're at all a bourbon connoisseur. The extensive list of bourbons offered is staggering and intriguing, but I have yet to personally indulge.

Other bar perks are the really tasty brews hand made exclusively for the restaurant by Brooklyn's Greenpoint Brewery. But what about the food? Well, I'm happy to say that Fette Sau's pork shoulder alone is worthy of the crowds. And don't think for a moment there won't be crowds. I demanded we get there at 5pm on the dot to snag a table and was glad I did, by the time we finished eating, the line was at least 15 people deep.

Aside from the pork shoulder, the beef and pork ribs were excellent and the spicy sausage was a welcome last minute order choice. The food is served on a platter and works best to share. Three of us were full, but not sickly stuffed with a helping of four menu items and two sides.

Now you BBQ purists and pundits need not tell me that better pulled pork exists. I had it from Mitchell's at the Big Apple Block Party. But in the city, where the fattening delicacy is not so easy to come by, a version this tasty is worth getting happy about.

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Posted on June 25, 2007

Restaurants »Smorgas Chef

smorgas chefAs a fan of Swedish food: gravlax, meatballs, herring, you name it, I was bound to likeSmorgas Chef , and I did. It's a local mini-chain of well prepared comfort food when other cuisine options are leaving you bored. Jim and I shared the smoked salmon with hard boiled eggs and escargot appetizers then split an open faced Swedish meatball sandwich.

It doesn't quite compare to other Scandinavian options like Good World or Aquavit, but those standards are too high to compare anything to. Sit outdoors and enjoy the views of lovely West Village townhouses and lovely lesbians smoking at the Cubby Hole, but if you have to dine indoors, there is a bit a nature inside: a giant birch grows through the floor–pretty cool.

To end the evening, there's an awesome cocktail I can't remember the name of and good dessert. They take reservations on opentable, but if you come early enough, snagging a table shouldn't be a problem.

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Posted on June 18, 2007

Restaurants »Pinks

pinks chili dogsMy parents introduced me to all sorts of foods growing up. On a trip to New York, the chef came out to see the two little preschool age girls chowing down on his escargot, in Colorado we ventured into the first sushi restaurant the city had ever seen and dove into octopus and eel, and when we visited family in California mom and dad introduced me and my bottomless stomach to a Pinks chili dog.

“See how the grease seeps into all five layers of packaging?' my dad asked, “That's how you know it's a good Pink's chili dog”. My parents frequented this 67 year old corner shop when they were living as young lovers do in LA in an apartment building with a moat and Steppenwolf as their neighbors who, I'm sure, also indulged in Pinks during their non-stop jam sessions.

Plenty of other famous people enjoy their Pink's too. A landmark of fast, gut busting food and cheesy, 50s architecture, it's a must for visitors to Los Angeles.

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Posted on June 11, 2007